Cast Iron Welding Repair using Flux Core Wire. Follow along as I repair this broken cast iron using Matheson .030 Flux Core welding wire. For this demonstration I explain the benefits of a preheat as well as controlling the cool down rate by burying in dry sand. Be sure to check out the other repair videos in this series to see how this welding repair method compares to the rest.
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Disclaimer: These videos are intended for entertainment purposes only and as such, you should not attempt to do any of the things you see me doing. Always read and follow the manufacturer’s safety guidelines before handling tools. Seek professional advice and training before using any welding equipment. Never operate any tool without wearing the proper personal protective equipment. Final warning, Do not attempt to do any of the things you see me doing!
Thanks for saving me the trouble writing to express exact the same things.
I repaired recreational boat propellers for over a decade using TIG but often did MIG for other things.
At times I had to repair cast iron exhaust manifolds - I would use solid MIG wire for that and pre-heating was key.
But what I hadn't considered was how to cool `it off slowly and sometimes other cracks would form for that reason. The play sand is perfect!
Still learned a TON in this one short video.
+Brandon Lund You are very welcome Sir! I have been a welder/fabricator/woodworker/blacksmith for over 40 years and I get really tired of the old way of thinking where creativity is squashed by old farts teaching the young people coming up that "their way" is the only way! You are willing to try new ways of doing things and then proving their viability through destruction testing thereby "proofing" i.e. PROVING the end result. . .
ALL THE BEST SIR!
Brandon, you not only come up with “other way’s” of doing things, but your explanation’s, demonstration’s, and TESTING your work are a credit to your craft! I’m new to welding, and I have a large cast iron cauldron with a long crack in it. I feel confident I can weld it up myself, let it cool, and grind it back down, hopefully, never to crack again. The wall thickness is maybe HALF of what a cast iron skillet is, so, I hope I can repair it without destroying it in the process. THANK YOU!!
I was a welder in a cast factory ,don't use this method on something that your life depends on if it breaks because all castings are different preheat to 400 degrees, Ni rod,peen,slow cool,sand works best, I ve even used old welding gloves lol , Mark Buckeye steel castings
Hey Patricia, preheat, nickel and post cool are my preferred repair methods also, however this repair is part of a repair series where we are trying different processes and filler metals then comparing the results on a destructive test.
I like your test of welding cast Iron,......you should have stacked barbells on it.
I wouldn't waste any money buying a 110 welder.
I'd buy a 220v welder Hobart Handler 190 MIG Welder.
I welded my motor mount with a 110 125 Amp welder and flux cored wire,......it broke within 5 minutes,.....
Then I prepared it and rewelded it with a Lincoln Electric 230-Volt 180-Amp Mig Flux-cored Wire Feed Welder and 20 years later it's still holding.
I'm not sure but I probably wouldn't dare try it with a nickel repair. Some people have allergic reactions to nickel...even touching it on their skin can cause a rash. I would however trust it with regular mig wire or even flux core wire since the wire is made of steel and the pan has similar properties.
I can relate brother! I often lay in bed (with my headphones on and my wife sleeping) and I get laughing so hard sometimes that it starts shaking the bed. Sometimes it actually wakes her up....which she then starts hitting me and telling me if i'm going to laugh like that then I need to go in the other room. SO now I try to hold in my laughter and it only makes it worse. Sorry bud but but there is no real good solution to this. Hahaha Cheers brother!
i never heard of a repair of cast with anything other then brazing. back in the day we braz cast iron massyfergesen frontend ( a 2 foot half bowl shape about 2+ inchs thick. )and it worked! A lot of stress on that piece holding front of tractor pounding down etc.never heard of a failure. Took long time to heat that piece 5 hours+, and 12 hours to cool it. also used bolts to hold the it together. removed them and filled that part of crack.
Brazing is probably the safest and most trusted method in my experience but for those without the proper conventional equipment, I wanted to demonstrate several different processes and then using a destructive process as a form of comparison.
For those of us on a budget who can't afford a rig welder, any advice on using a plain old wire feed arc welder? Is it even possibles?
Reason being, I have an old wood stove that was my grandparents, and the top has a couple big cracks/broken pieces. I came across this site while looking for ways to repair it...
Cast Iron can be fussy depending on a bunch of factors. You mentioned wire feed but you also said arc welder. If your talking just plain wire feed mig I have done it successfully and I have also done it arc welding with 7018 and nickle rods. You mentioned an old wood stove. Automatically I would encourage you to stop drill the crack, groove the crack and preheat the part prior to welding for your best chance of success. I'll attach a playlist with a bunch of cast iron welding process and testing information. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qNHAteo-qwg&list=PLfbf78fMz9VpweFv4IqUfrrNV6Vvro7Cd
There was very little penetration. Think of brazing rather than melting 2 metals together. The goal is to try and not "wet" the cast iron. When it starts getting molten is when it's more prone to cracking.
+Bill Admond it sounds like we think very similar Bill. I'm not sure if you have seen many of my other videos but I actually talked about this exact same thing in a video not long ago. Unfortunately we live in a disposable society and people are accustomed to tossing it out and buying new. I enjoy fixing and repairing and giving new life to others people junk. Cheers:)
+Brandon Lund I really would like to, when I see on the streets abandoned wood pallets, bicycles or scrap steel I feel sorry And I think "what a waste because I could make good things just I don't have the place.
In here were have "garage sheds" where retired workers set up workshops and let other people use the tools for repairs or projects.
Poor me, I always fight with the owners, they are all stubborn and arrogant old fashioned and old minded carpenters or something like.
I'm creative and I can make industry standard like stuff so these people don't understand me!
I think I can pretty much guarantee that anybody asking about using a flux core to weld cast iron is asking because all they have is one of the cheap Chinese 115v flux core AC only welders, not a $600 DCEN capable welder. Believe me when I say, none of us want to run flux core, it's just all we can afford!!!!
It's not the weight of the food that I'm worried about. It would be if the pan fell which would increase the weight of the pan and its contents causing the pan to gain mass as it quickly falls to the floor.
I don't know the calculations, but even an object falling which accumulates, let's say, a mass of 45 lbs by the time it hits the ground might be enough to loosen/weaken the welds enough so that they knew carrying limit of the repaired handle is less than half of the 90lbs you started with.
I fixed a cast iron stove top and was told the same way you did it.In the end I was happy with the final outcome.The process does not put the cast item back to new but it will give a few more years use from it
91 pounds on that handle is pretty good. I wouldn't have expected even that much. In real life, it might not be able to hold much more than that. Good to know that simple cast iron can be repaired with MIG.
Is your glove electrically insulated or is that not a concern? I jus picked up my first welder, it’s the harbor freight flux 125 although I’m finding it’s not suitable for the thin stainless steel I wanted to weld as I’m melting holes though it. My first question was wether I could safely touch the piece I’m working on without getting electrocuted.
So the safe answer is there is always potential to be electrocuted, however electricity takes the path of least resistance to ground. As long as your not standing barefoot in a puddle welding you should be all set. You can actually touch the metal bare handed as you weld without getting a shock. Congratulations on your welder purchase!
They make solid wire and flux core wire. Solid wire is used with a shielding gas, also known as GMAW, flux core wire, also known as FCAW can be used with or without a shielding gas. Flux core wire used with gas is often referred to as "dual shield" and is largely used for structural work. The term "flux core mig wire" is a slang term used in the trade, however, you cant have both. It's either flux core wire or it's mig wire. This project was welded with flux core wire. Cheers.
Since it is a pan it nobody will load up 90 lbs of scrap on it but they will run it through many cycles of heating and cooling. I think the different metals (filler material and cast iron) will expand differently and that is where the crack will begin. Just a thought, I could be wrong but I think worth mentioning.
Good point Robert and that is very possible also. Cast iron is very fussy sometimes from one casting to another. One poster here said he has a piece of repaired cast in a wood stove that has seen hundreds of heat cool cycles with no signs of cracking. It's kinda a crap shoot at times but the dissimilar metals as you pointed out is where the crack would reoccur. Cheers brother
You can give it a go with flux core mig. Groove out the crack, stop drill it then do a short bead no more than 1 inch, pein it and let it completely cool. Once it's completely cool you will know if it will work. 90% of the time the crack will develope as its cooling. Nickel rod would work also if you have stick.
Thank you very much! I regret not getting a starting weight. This series kinda evolved into what it's become so I never really thought to see how much weight it would have originally held. I might pick up a new one and find out, then repai it and compare the numbers
Good work. Been doing this for cast iron and cast steel vises for years using flux core wire.
Most don’t believe it. It’s A lot stronger than any braise or nickel rod when done wrong.
I collect cast iron skillets and actually wonder if the same non broken skillet would hold the same weight
+Freakingstang Good to know! I picked up an old 40's Wilton Bullet also and the fixed jaw had been broken and repaired badly. It looks like it was brazed and it cracked. I've been meaning to redo the repair. Now I know what process I'm going to use! You might even be able to see it in some of my videos. It would be on the bench to the right of the door when I do my video introduction. I remember when I first got it that I stripped it it down and the year was stamped on the keyway. I think it was 1941 or 1947. I cant remember. I think it is also stamped Chicago. Thanks for the tip man!
I only resulted to trying it after every other option failed on an 1940’s wilton bullet vise for my fab shop. Tig with all the ss rods, stick with all the known cast iron rods.... figured what the hell did I have to lose.... then wailed on it with a 40oz ball peen to see if it would hold... still on my welding table to this day.
Nice! I've been considering trying to break a new pan and measuring the weight but I doubt it would break the same as this so the results probably wouldn't mean much. Flux core surprised me for the repair.
+Brandon Lund I can appreciate the effort you put in to showing the effect of using alternate methods. It's better to know why things do and don't work, and at what level. It puts to rest a lot of urban legend.
I should have said it was combustion we were seeing. On job sites (especially during winter) we always had to heat the steel before welding. It removed moisture ON the steel, not IN it as you pointed out. I misspoke
What I do sometimes I go to the yonkyard and get some of the fiberglass hose protector out of Honda or Nissan cars from the motor and I use that as a nossle protector and is very cheap in case that you don't have another option.and it works fine.
Good video AND I subscribed, immediately!
Question, though this video has NOTHING to do with cooking, is using the flux core wire on the cooking surface safe to cook on?
That may be something you don't know as your video was only for welding purposes.
I have a cast iron griddle that is cracked and I want to see if I can repair it with the only welder I have which is a flux core welder.
I HOPE it will be safe to use for cooking purposes after using the flux core wire.
If anyone knows whether this is safe, I'd appreciate knowing.
I can be reached on Facebook.
Thanks, Brandon. Keep producing these great and informative/instructional videos!
Thank you very much Kim i truly appreciate the support and sub. I cant say if its food safe but here is my take on it. The pan is obviously made of metal, carbon and a bunch of other elements. The wire is made of steel with a flux in the core. The only purpose of the flux is to shield the molten weld puddle until it solidifies. Once that happens, you chip away that flux /slag layer leaving an exposed steel weld bead. I personally dont see any health risk (no different than cooking with a steel pan) but I'm not an expert. I can say however I would not eat out of something that was repaired with nickle rod. Nickle is a carcinogen. That's my 2 cents anyways. Cheers :)
You typically would change the gooseneck out as well, for fluxcore. They come coated in a braided Kevlar something material, and a threaded end to screw on a small ceramic end piece. Also if you want to have the best weld experience and results, use ESAB wire there is no comparison, Lincoln is subpar.
No problem, but I meant the the gooseneck not the liner.
-Lincoln Electric XM13304-6 K126 Squirt Gun Tube with,
-Lincoln Electric XT12313 K126 Squirt Gun Tube Thread Protector. Also, you should really give Esab a try, depending on the type of welding your doing we use the core shield 8 for bridgework. I would imagine the core shield 40, 6, or 7. 👍🏻
Thanks Mike. Interesting. I have never heard of swapping liners for flux core. I think the liner I'm using in this one is teflon but I cant remember. Surprisingly enough I have never run ESAB wire. I might have to give it a go. So far, this Matheson wire is probably some of the best I have ever run.
The moisture during preheating is condensed water vapor from the flame on the still cold metal. When the metal reaches about 70°C the water does re-evaporate. There is no water in metal.
It worked here, but cooldown in cold sand is actually worse than just in plain air. Packing it in heat resistant mats works well.
No clue. Maybe he's just curious, Maybe he doesn't own a flux core machine and wants to know if it works before he considers buying one, maybe he has a piece of broken cast and doesn't want to spend his money on wire if it doesn't work. I have no idea. It could literally be 100's of reasons.
Some years ago I was stuck with a broken iron casting, can'r remember what it was now but nothing critical, just had to stick it back together. I used a stick welder with normal steel electrodes. Looked like crap but it held together just fine for as long as I needed it to. I didn't know about nickel electrodes then, I'll use those if there's a next time. Which there may well be! This video was very informative and very well done, thank you for that.
+Brandon Lund Hi Brandon, it was about 30 years ago! I can't even remember what it was that I welded, I just remember that it was something that I had to do with the resources that I had available at the time.
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