Cast Iron Welding Repair using Flux Core Wire. Follow along as I repair this broken cast iron using Matheson .030 Flux Core welding wire. For this demonstration I explain the benefits of a preheat as well as controlling the cool down rate by burying in dry sand. Be sure to check out the other repair videos in this series to see how this welding repair method compares to the rest.
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Disclaimer: These videos are intended for entertainment purposes only and as such, you should not attempt to do any of the things you see me doing. Always read and follow the manufacturer’s safety guidelines before handling tools. Seek professional advice and training before using any welding equipment. Never operate any tool without wearing the proper personal protective equipment. Final warning, Do not attempt to do any of the things you see me doing!
Thanks for saving me the trouble writing to express exact the same things.
I repaired recreational boat propellers for over a decade using TIG but often did MIG for other things.
At times I had to repair cast iron exhaust manifolds - I would use solid MIG wire for that and pre-heating was key.
But what I hadn't considered was how to cool `it off slowly and sometimes other cracks would form for that reason. The play sand is perfect!
Still learned a TON in this one short video.
+Brandon Lund You are very welcome Sir! I have been a welder/fabricator/woodworker/blacksmith for over 40 years and I get really tired of the old way of thinking where creativity is squashed by old farts teaching the young people coming up that "their way" is the only way! You are willing to try new ways of doing things and then proving their viability through destruction testing thereby "proofing" i.e. PROVING the end result. . .
ALL THE BEST SIR!
I like your style, It's a good thing to learn and know as much as you can, into what works and what doesn't. If you were on a space mission and something went wrong, you could do your best to try and make it work, I rather have that mindset then someone who say's, Don't do that it will never work, let's just stay out here until we die ! what would have happen to Aplo 9 or 11 if that's how they thought? Good job.
+maddog7 I didn't take your comment as disrespect brother. Your first comment was spot on. I was just reassuring you if you wanted to try it, it's good stuff. A lot of times your paying for the name. Cheers brother.
Sorry. You're experience tells you that it is good and I am certainly ok with that. Did not mean to imply that it is bad just that there is no guarantee that it is the same due to same factory.
Very interesting vid, thanks.
I think eggs are lighter than all that crap so it was probably good to go lol. I can tell you one mistake you made though, NEVER weld over flux before you chip it away. It looked to me like you were adding weld where you already welded before actually chipping. The flux will contaminate the weld so it won't hold. It may have held on if you didn't do that. Cool vid though
Thanks bro, you demonstrate the things us backyard guys don’t know about. I am a new welder myself...don’t know metallurgy. I have some cast I want to weld for decor, you’ve been helpful! Is propane or MAP gas best for heating the cast?
This is good idea video...One flux clore is a method staw... which does produce higher temperatures for welding...Which can create extremely durable welds...
Flux core mig is also available ie home depot (lincoln electric) my preference) tractor supply (hobart) as in the video..any weld on cast via ie brazing or mig or tig.. is dissimilar metal..the strongest bond is cast iron is to recast the metal..which is very hard to do... the initial casting being the strongest..since cast iron is nor steel it is very hard considering the amount of carbon in the steel...
i have had success using borax and other fluxes that do help to control the welding temperatures.. also map gas is helpful being a blend of acetylene and propane..propane is a very cold gas...
another test ie versus strength would be proper sealing lie water etc etc...as far as oxy acetylene it doesnt always do as well either...ie the the blend doesnt always penetrate into the cast iron...so this is all about how far the weld metal penetrates and cleats and pools into the cast..then the tensile strength of the property of the repair metal...also in this video notice the welder used the bare minimum weld which is a viable strength...considering he could have gone and done 100 percent fill with additonal lap welding for strength you want some cool welding look how they bond armor plating in tanks with smaw vs fcaw...so this gives you the idea of the principles behind dissimilar welding process.. fcaw of course being extremely cheap as well as a good idea for one off
antique restorations as well...the next would be a strengthing video as well as liquid sealing video for final process...but a great video....could use a safety itro for those who hurt themselves lol...but nice..
Ive ran off miles of 0.45 flux core wire working at a dry dock, and it still required a shielding gas I don't recommend this gas-less flux core wire for nothing more than patching a hole in a muffler nothing serious at all because it wont hold.
Brandon answer me this, do you advocate teaching students to weld downhill? There's a Youtube channel of some KIA doing just that obviously he cannot run a 7018 from the bottom up, which is a necessary skill for anyone in the trade, would you agree?
He was not welding cast iron. He said he was welding malleable iron. Big difference. Malleable iron starts out as cast iron, but an annealing heat treatment is applied to the cast iron to make it more workable and increase ductility. Consequently, malleable iron has much lower carbon content than cast iron making it less brittle. Malleable iron is also relatively easy to machine and it is shock resistant which is evident by him welding it in a single pass. My experience when Brazing Vs FCAW on cast iron is drastically different than what you have "seen". In fact, the destructive testing we have done on the channel showed only an insignificant difference between these two processes and the results were far from "terrible".
I know there will always be critics, and they will always say that because something isn't textbook, it isn't right. I first saw this done as a child, on a cracked exhaust manifold, with a stick welder, by an old farmer helping our pastor, who was struggling to find a replacement, everyone around said it couldn't be done, and that it would never hold. The farmer didn't preheat, simply drilled the holes at the ends of the crack, and did it a half inch at a time, and beat the crap out of it with the peening hammer as soon as he pulled the stick away. it did the job, and held till the wheels fell off that car.(figuratively speaking). It is not about the perfect weld. it is about what works, you can do with what you have. I have done the same over the years with both a stick, and a wire feed, on manifolds, broken bolt tangs on engine blocks, and on an old MG Midget transmission case. and it never failed to hold. People don't always have a welding or machine shop right around the corner.
Spot on brother! 100% I grew up having to make due with what I had and you learn real quick what works and what doesn't. I cant count the number of times I've done things others said could not be done. Try I say. Cheers brother!
I bought my 1993 f150 for $400 because the engine had a cracked block between to freeze plugs. I repaired it with a flux core wire cracker box welder. that was 3 years ago and she's still my daily driver with 379,392 miles on the same cracked engine. I used a benzo torch for the heating and a tiny air hammer to do the peening.
Zheng I have a Lincoln buzz box AC/D.C. I'm supposed to be able to weld aluminum with it. Was practically new from auction but I got no paperwork or manuals with it. If that's possible how about a video showing this short bus rider how to do it. Thanks
Keith, if you click the link in the description for the tools and gear that I use there is a tig rig setup on that page. I use straight argon on my tig setup. That way your setup to weld stainless. We dont have a rural king locally. I get all my supplies from Matheson. They are all over. Great service and prices.
I have an argon tank and gauge on my mig. The tig torch and power block. Where would I look for those. Gas cylinder co that sells welding supplies or can I get one at Rural King with my ammo next week.
Thanks for the sub Keith and congratulations on your new purchase! Theoretically it's "possible" to weld aluminum using DC stick but the results in my experience are not good. It's not a process used in the industry, welding thin metal is non existant and thicker stuff is unreliable. Im not trying to discourage you but all my experiences with DC stick welding have not been good. If you really want to weld aluminum the best way is to buy an ac tig machine but they are quite expensive. The Lincoln buzz box is a rock solid unit, plus because its DC you can pick yourself up a 17 style tig torch, argon gauge and a power block (the components of a tig rig setup) and do scratch start tig.
The moisture you see evaporating from the iron isn't inside the metal, it's condensation. When the metal passes 100c you can see when the condensation no longer attaches to. This trick can be used to give a rough estimate of how hot your parent metal is. You can also put a carbonizing flame to it and dump the soot on the surface, when the soot evaporates you know you're past 400c.
If your welding ANY repair where the part has detached NEVER bevel the edges to the stage where there is no original material left on the shelf of the repair. That part will allow you to align the 2 parts up in there original positions.
True, however in this series we have broken this handle so many times that we are intentionally trying to remove all traces of the previous repair so we have a consistent starting point for each new repair. To do this we have remove it all down to the original cast.
When I saw what you did it confirmed what I've done in the past although this is not my trade and I always wondered how strong the weld really was. When you did your test I sat here nodding my head in agreement "but" I have to disagree with your weight test and please correct me if I'm wrong. The weight you applied was "not" over the actual weld but several inches away and not concentrated in one spot as I'm sure a lab test would be conducted. What I am saying is, I am certain that the actual weight on the weld was probably multiples of what your scale read because of the actual distance away from said weld, think lever affect here. I hope I explained myself in a logical fashion but I look forward to any comments in agreement or not.
At any rate, "weld done", pun intended. Thanks for the video.
+Brandon Lund If you don't mind a project question. I am rebuilding an antique stationary engine that is missing the mounting block for the rocker arms and shaft. I've managed to find a pair of cast rockers with the shaft going through a cast block. To make it fit I have to weld that to a 1/2" steel plate which will bolt onto the head. If I preheat the cast should I be able to mig weld the cast to the steel plate? Thanks.
+Brandon Lund I've seen a couple of your videos and like what you do, I think what makes them so popular is that you recognize your followers are most likely limited in experience with steep learning curves. I love to watch professionals who are able to explain in a simple and respectful manner to those of us who may have expertise in other areas but just love to get their hands dirty...and yes I've subed.
Thanks Wayne. Nope I completely understood what you were explaining and you are totally right about there being more force on the weld than what was actually shown on the scale. I think it's called a lever but either way your right. I'm not sure if you have seen any of my other cast iron welding videos (which includes different processes and filler materials) but each test we did was using this same crude but rather effective method and this repair (if I recall correctly) was one of the stronger ones. Thanks for watching and for your support. Brandon
Thanks Rolando! It is a very smooth and dependable welder. Because it's transformer based you can find some pretty good deals on used models on Facebook Marketplace and Craigslist. Thanks for your support brother!
Thanks davionaceae! Good question! I didn't weld both sides so I could experiment to see if welding it on both sides makes it stronger. Heres a link to find out! Cheers buddy! https://youtu.be/qNHAteo-qwg
Brandon, you not only come up with “other way’s” of doing things, but your explanation’s, demonstration’s, and TESTING your work are a credit to your craft! I’m new to welding, and I have a large cast iron cauldron with a long crack in it. I feel confident I can weld it up myself, let it cool, and grind it back down, hopefully, never to crack again. The wall thickness is maybe HALF of what a cast iron skillet is, so, I hope I can repair it without destroying it in the process. THANK YOU!!
I was a welder in a cast factory ,don't use this method on something that your life depends on if it breaks because all castings are different preheat to 400 degrees, Ni rod,peen,slow cool,sand works best, I ve even used old welding gloves lol , Mark Buckeye steel castings
Hey Patricia, preheat, nickel and post cool are my preferred repair methods also, however this repair is part of a repair series where we are trying different processes and filler metals then comparing the results on a destructive test.
I like your test of welding cast Iron,......you should have stacked barbells on it.
I wouldn't waste any money buying a 110 welder.
I'd buy a 220v welder Hobart Handler 190 MIG Welder.
I welded my motor mount with a 110 125 Amp welder and flux cored wire,......it broke within 5 minutes,.....
Then I prepared it and rewelded it with a Lincoln Electric 230-Volt 180-Amp Mig Flux-cored Wire Feed Welder and 20 years later it's still holding.
I'm not sure but I probably wouldn't dare try it with a nickel repair. Some people have allergic reactions to nickel...even touching it on their skin can cause a rash. I would however trust it with regular mig wire or even flux core wire since the wire is made of steel and the pan has similar properties.
I can relate brother! I often lay in bed (with my headphones on and my wife sleeping) and I get laughing so hard sometimes that it starts shaking the bed. Sometimes it actually wakes her up....which she then starts hitting me and telling me if i'm going to laugh like that then I need to go in the other room. SO now I try to hold in my laughter and it only makes it worse. Sorry bud but but there is no real good solution to this. Hahaha Cheers brother!
i never heard of a repair of cast with anything other then brazing. back in the day we braz cast iron massyfergesen frontend ( a 2 foot half bowl shape about 2+ inchs thick. )and it worked! A lot of stress on that piece holding front of tractor pounding down etc.never heard of a failure. Took long time to heat that piece 5 hours+, and 12 hours to cool it. also used bolts to hold the it together. removed them and filled that part of crack.
Brazing is probably the safest and most trusted method in my experience but for those without the proper conventional equipment, I wanted to demonstrate several different processes and then using a destructive process as a form of comparison.
For those of us on a budget who can't afford a rig welder, any advice on using a plain old wire feed arc welder? Is it even possibles?
Reason being, I have an old wood stove that was my grandparents, and the top has a couple big cracks/broken pieces. I came across this site while looking for ways to repair it...
Cast Iron can be fussy depending on a bunch of factors. You mentioned wire feed but you also said arc welder. If your talking just plain wire feed mig I have done it successfully and I have also done it arc welding with 7018 and nickle rods. You mentioned an old wood stove. Automatically I would encourage you to stop drill the crack, groove the crack and preheat the part prior to welding for your best chance of success. I'll attach a playlist with a bunch of cast iron welding process and testing information. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qNHAteo-qwg&list=PLfbf78fMz9VpweFv4IqUfrrNV6Vvro7Cd
There was very little penetration. Think of brazing rather than melting 2 metals together. The goal is to try and not "wet" the cast iron. When it starts getting molten is when it's more prone to cracking.
+Bill Admond it sounds like we think very similar Bill. I'm not sure if you have seen many of my other videos but I actually talked about this exact same thing in a video not long ago. Unfortunately we live in a disposable society and people are accustomed to tossing it out and buying new. I enjoy fixing and repairing and giving new life to others people junk. Cheers:)
+Brandon Lund I really would like to, when I see on the streets abandoned wood pallets, bicycles or scrap steel I feel sorry And I think "what a waste because I could make good things just I don't have the place.
In here were have "garage sheds" where retired workers set up workshops and let other people use the tools for repairs or projects.
Poor me, I always fight with the owners, they are all stubborn and arrogant old fashioned and old minded carpenters or something like.
I'm creative and I can make industry standard like stuff so these people don't understand me!
I think I can pretty much guarantee that anybody asking about using a flux core to weld cast iron is asking because all they have is one of the cheap Chinese 115v flux core AC only welders, not a $600 DCEN capable welder. Believe me when I say, none of us want to run flux core, it's just all we can afford!!!!
It's not the weight of the food that I'm worried about. It would be if the pan fell which would increase the weight of the pan and its contents causing the pan to gain mass as it quickly falls to the floor.
I don't know the calculations, but even an object falling which accumulates, let's say, a mass of 45 lbs by the time it hits the ground might be enough to loosen/weaken the welds enough so that they knew carrying limit of the repaired handle is less than half of the 90lbs you started with.
I fixed a cast iron stove top and was told the same way you did it.In the end I was happy with the final outcome.The process does not put the cast item back to new but it will give a few more years use from it
91 pounds on that handle is pretty good. I wouldn't have expected even that much. In real life, it might not be able to hold much more than that. Good to know that simple cast iron can be repaired with MIG.
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