Stick Welding Cast Iron Repair with Muggy Weld. Cast iron can be tricky to repair because it's prone to cracking. Follow along as I repair a broken cast iron exhaust manifold using Muggy Weld with no pre-heat. For this demonstration I used a 2 step process starting with an electrode that can withstand the dirtiest of cast irons followed by a cap that has excellent crack resistance properties. Although I believe a good pre-heat and a slow cool down will give you the best chance for success, i wanted to see how this rod would respond in a worst case scenario such as cold welding. It handled the thermal stresses excellent without any signs of cracking. This would be a huge bonus for parts too big to get a good pre-heat / cool down or for parts that are not cost effective to be removed.
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Disclaimer: These videos are intended for entertainment purposes only and as such, you should not attempt to do any of the things you see me doing. Always read and follow the manufacturer’s safety guidelines before handling tools. Seek professional advice and training before using any welding equipment. Never operate any tool without wearing the proper personal protective equipment. Final warning, Do not attempt to do any of the things you see me doing!
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Always place manifold in a charcoal grille and allow to fully heat up. Then weld. Then place back in charcoal fire and allow fire to cool and go out naturally. Next day all is well. It won't ever re-crack.
Hey Brandon , I would like to try the Muggy weld 72 and 77 rods to see if they can build up erosion on a 180 ton Carrier chiller. The water box lid and flange are rusted out!! I like your videos and was able to fix my broken cast bench vise after watching you weld cast with your mig. Thank you , keep up the good work!!
Thanks for the video Brandon! I I recently graduated welding trade school and don’t have much field experience so I love these videos.
I just have a question. You drilled the crack so it wouldn’t spread but wouldn’t the weld consume the entire crack melting and fusing the edges anyway?
Would you be able to explain how the crack would still spread even after being consumed by the weld and how drilling it prevents that?
Hi Brandon, with muggy weld rod I would repair a cast iron boiler used to heat a house. The pressure regulation system on the boiler failed causing the pressure to rise and breaking a piece off the boiler. One particular section was shattered and will have to be replaced by welding in a piece of mild steel.🤞🤞🤞
Okay... If I had some muggyweld I would use it to repair a cast iron flange in place. It's not coming off the tractor where it's been for 52 years. I have some Craftsman 3/32 cast iron rods that run on ac or dc. They are older than you and the flux is coming off them. I really need a proper weld with less chance of blowing through or cracking the iron. I can weld it with a warmed up motor.
A couple years back I had my Chevy 383 stroker engine on my engine startup stand and I couldn't get it started so I had it in my garage and it was the coldest winter ever here in Windsor Ontario Canada and guess what? Yup the block cracked in 2 places. I could send you the pics. So I have been doing a lot of research into welding it and I have heard about Muggy Weld but have not bought it yet. I would love to try it so I can finally get my 1980 Camaro back up and running again. Thanks for the opportunity for getting some.
Your in it Daniele! It's a shame that the stroker got cracked but the good news is that Muggy Weld is a perfect fix for that! Be sure to keep an eye on that video. As soon as it hits 1M I'm making the announcement. Good luck!
Thank you Mark! I appreciate your kind comment! Btw, I can relate to not actually doing something but finding it very interesting...i watch a lot of machining videos but i have never done it and dont have a clue lol. Great minds think alike I guess! Cheers brother!
You got that right Robert. It's also called Metal Fume Fever. I've had it 2x. If your buddy refuses to wear a respirator, at least have him pound some milk right after welding. It lessens the symptoms. Some say it's a myth but it worked for me and others I know.
My apologies Robert, I must have stainless on the brain, I meant to say galvanized not stainless. Galvanized metal is toxic when grinding, heating and welding. You should still use PPE when welding cutting grinding but stainless is not toxic like galvanized.
Good video , Ive always had better luck with parts from an engine if they are heated up , baked prior to welding to remove soaked in oil . Especially diesels. Ive really come to enjoy tig welding most stuff. Great video though , I sure will give muggy weld a try next time I have some damaged cast iron.
Thanks Mark! This was more of a test to see how these rods would respond using the cold method. As you pointed out, I would also go with a preheat and post heat cooldown to give myself the best chance of it not cracking. After using these rods cold I can say with confidence they would work great with preheat.
Brandon, I am a cast iron expert with 40 years experience. Almost all your information is spot on except one thing you NEVER use nickel rod on an exhaust manifold regardless of any claims to the contrary by the manufacturers of the rod. The reason is simple they get red hot during hard driving. If you don't believe me just run your car hard at night the look at the manifold, it will be glowing red. The expansion/contraction rate of nickel is much different than cast iron and it WILL eventually crack again. It's not a matter of whether it will crack but when. I've been shown nickel repaired manifolds that the owner claims are holding just fine but a close inspection will show a hairline crack along the edge of the weld EVERY time if it has been awhile since the repair.
There is only one way to PROPERLY repair an exhaust manifold and that is by using the same material as a filler rod; in other words you MUST use a cast iron rod as a filler because it has the same expansion/contraction rate. They are available at some welding shops but can sometimes be hard to find because so few welders know how to use them and the ONLY way to use them is by gas welding with a high heat flux. The manifold must be clamped to a strong back to hold its flatness and even then it may have to be ground flat at a head shop. Preheating and post heating the entire manifold to the proper temperature is a must; generally to a blue/brown color but temp sticks are better at about 500 to 600 degrees and it must be buried in sand (preferably heated) for slow cooling or slowly cooled in an oven.
It is well beyond the experience of even most experienced welders as it is like welding mud and it takes a LOT of practice to do properly. I would suggest you try it just for the experience. It is somewhat like regular gas welding but MUCH harder to do properly.
Exhaust manifolds have gotten to be pretty cheap with many running just $50 to $100. And I can assure you I would charge more than that to properly repair a manifold but some are hard or impossible to find and that's when you find someone who can weld manifolds but you MUST insist it be done with cast iron rod. If they claim otherwise find a different welder. One note about using nickel rods. You are right about welding one inch at a time (depending on the thickness) and peening the weld after but a good rule of thumb is allow it to cool to the point where you can place your hand on it before welding the next inch. Cast iron welding takes time either by using nickel or cast iron rod. I watched my boss try to nickel weld a cast iron bell housing once and he tried to do a four inch weld all at once. Even with peening it kept cracking on him. I could not convince him how to do it properly so I walked away; he never did get it repaired and trashed it. He had decades of welding experience but no cast iron experience. Even welders with that much experience sometimes just don't know how to do cast iron.
Thanks man! I appreciate your kind words. I plan to get my hands on some cast rods and i cant wait to see how they flow. The manifold was more of an experiment on the basic process of applying a nickle filler to a cast part, (not necessarily a tutorial on what you should do to fix a manifold) but then some were saying it was not cast iron so I ended up switching our testing piece to a cast iron skillet to hopefully eliminate that cast iron / cast steel debate. Thanks again for the great information and comment!
Cast iron can be tricky to weld and the only way of knowing is to give it a try. Some cast iron welds easily and some does not. If you plan to tray and weld it while on the vehicle, it is common to allow the vehicle to get up to temperature, then weld it and then then wrap in a welding blanket to allow it to cool slowly. I have a cast iron welding series playlist that might be helpful for you.
You can stick weld aluminum using DCEP. Its not pretty but it works. The rods are fairly expensive. Clean your material real good with a stainless brush and you need to preheat the part around 400f. It also helps if you have sacrificial tabs at the beginning and end of your weld that you can start / stop on.
good video but why have you changed the part you was welding at first you were welding the top of the manifold but when you showed the finished item the weld was on the other side the bottom so i am confused but if you did weld it yes it is a good weld
lol ... this is amusing ... I've been welding cast iron on heavy equipment for decades that is subject to some serious physical abuse and I've never done any of what's in this video 😅
Oh well, maybe a manifold requires a different procedure!
Im glad you enjoyed it! 😁 This process is often referred to as the "cold welding technique". Lincoln has a pretty good article about it if your interested. I didnt invent it. I just demonstrated the procedure. Cheers
You are incorrect about welding cherry red mild steel. Your undercut can also be cause by the too much angle on the electrode. If you purge the manifold while tig welding it, the weld inside will look nice like the outside.
I'm confused why you would think mild steel cracks from being heated to cherry red and allowed to cool (this is exactly what happens when you weld) but I agree with everything else you said, including the importance of a purge when tig welding.
I've welded an old cast iron vise I broke a couple years ago with 6013 rod and it's holding fine to this day! I think it's actually stronger than it was before because I just can't seem to break it now.
Good to know! If you have been watching the Cast Iron Welding series you probably know I have tried a LOT of different methods. I don't think I've tried 6013 though 🤔. I might have to give it a try. Thanks for sharing your success story!
The undercut may be that you went a bit fast with your weld and didn't let the weld fill in. There is a tendency to run quick with cast iron because it doesnt like heat, but you still have to allow that weld rod fill in its own cut. Excellent video
jason bourne You are spot on when you say there is a tendency to run quick when welding cast. We all try to limit that heat input, and in an effort to do that, sometimes we go a bit too fast. Thank you for this great comment! Cheers brother!
My girlfriend has a 15" crack. How much rod will I need to get full penetration. She says I need to preheat the hole and the crack prior to laying down my rod and it will prevent sticking my tip. I feel like I need a bigger rod but what do ya do?
God, I'm so juvenile sometimes...🙄
Bluelightbandit sorry buddy the only thing you can do is go down to the butcher buy a leg of lamb shove that in do some stitching and pull out the bone that should get you afew extra miles before she will need a full resleave
I used a Eutectick low amp cast rod decades ago that required no preheat or drilling. Not sure if they're still around, but awesome products Had a 1/16" ss rod max amp was 40, had a 120k psi tinsel & brass would stick to it. so w/e the application (i repaired cutting dies for the Hanover Shoe co) and has to splash a little brass on the cutter edge where worn. Regular Stainless it just balls up, this stuff it blended.
I love hearing from the seasoned guys on here and hearing about some of the things they repaired and how they repaired them. This was back when guys tried things to see what worked and what didnt. Thank you sir!
When I learned, 1950s, after welding the cast iron was wrapped in an asbestos blanket so it would cool slowly. Small parts went into a tub of loose asbestos fibers. Shops and foundries that do a lot of cast iron welding usually have an oven.
+Brandon Lund Much better welders and rod today. New and better techniques. Lots of change in 60 years. I worked in shipyards, ships were steam and all the piping & boilers were covered in asbestos. But I still have 2 lungs.
Bad stuff! Before they knew the health hazards of asbestos. Ive been around asbestos quite a bit myself in the trades but I've always been careful. Hopefully it won't catch up with me. A couple of my viewers have mentioned the big ovens and if you have access, that is by far the best way to go.
It actually does though. This is a well known and proven process, including the nickel filler material. Dont worry, it will work. Old timers have been using nickel for years, plus I didnt want to wait 10 years with an "update" that it was still holding before I could post the video.
There’s a contradiction there because according to the other videos from muggy weld, all this protocol you’re making is completely not necessary, all you do is get the metal hot enough use the flush and the rod, and it’s done, mmmm I’m confused!!!
I dont know because I have not watched their videos. When they send the rod they send literature to help the user with a successful repair. It would be pretty hard to mess up if you follow the literature.
Dang real specific I mean left is pretty obvious i guess I did not look at it well but sounds right but otherwise I was just going to say gen 3 truck motor i guess could be a gen 4 i dont know of they changed the bolt pattern would fit
A very good video...I weld, on occasion, learned a lot watching this and I really liked the little welder set...This was also a very good lesson in technique teaching as well...My thanks to the gent that made it.
hey im a pro welder. I'd never post a pic or video like that. if i did id add a warning. sum kid who isn't a pro welder mite c it & b convinced they can weld a load-bearing or pressurized cast iron part on their vehicle and it fails. They'll get hurt, GOD Forbid. Btw, there young welders - men & women - who can weld circles around me. No big deal. I had a feller ask me to "repair" a cast iron cooking pot. i refused. I trust my welds but I don't trust the properties of post-welded cast iron parts. I could have made him promise me he'll never cook in it and he does anyway & he gets hurt or sum one else does.
To viewers: If u need a cast iron part welded, FIND A CERTIFIED WELDER. If it goes on ur vehicle, chuck the damaged one & buy a new one. DONT take any chances.
+madbear3512 Thats a great idea! Here is the one that I use (except mine is red). It's just a little hand held unit that works really good. A 50 lb bag of sand lasts a long time. https://amzn.to/2PWTZ9a
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