I take a break from welding in this weeks episode to do some much needed DIY maintenance to our oil fired Bouderus hydronic boiler before the long winter is upon us. What started out as a simple filter change at the oil tank turned into a little more when I discovered that the oil line was plugged with sludge, which then it plugged up the oil pump on the oil burner. Join me as I learn to do some basic maintenance on my oil fired boiler.
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Disclaimer: These videos are intended for entertainment purposes only and as such, you should not attempt to do any of the things you see me doing. Always read and follow the manufacturer’s safety guidelines before handling tools. Seek professional advice and training before using any welding equipment. Never operate any tool without wearing the proper personal protective equipment. Final warning, Do not attempt to do any of the things you see me doing!
Bob Stone This is why I love our community! Thank you very much! I did a little research on what you said and it looks like bio diesel is the answer! Thanks man! How long do these tanks last typically? I'm guessing mine was installed in the 60's-70's?
Interesting old General filter housing. It has the flat gasket lip on the filter bowl, rather than the upturned lip. My old General housing that I just changed out was like that. I have never seen another like it until now.
Just like the oil filter in a car, a little oil on the flat rubber gasket/o-ring at the top of the oil filter housing helps the gasket seat better without leaking. You had no leak (I presume) so you got away with it. The job of changing that filter should take less than ten minutes or less and should be done every year. Don't wait so long next time. If you were able to clean the screen filter in the burner's oil pump, you can change the burner's nozzle, which along with the pump, is really the heart of the burner. I have a big old house in Staten Island, NY. It's a three family with 53 windows and the boiler is almost as big as a Volkswagen. I haven't had an oil burner technician come for a service call in probably 20 years. A few years ago I installed a new burner and a Beckett "Aquasmart" controller myself over the Summer. It cut oil consumption by about 25%. I moved to Georgia in late 2012 and my adult daughter now lives in the house and acts as the "property manager". She's a Lund, and a quick learner with no fear of ever making things worse. I showed her how to change the oil burner filter, change the nozzle, and clean out the boiler (it's huge). You show by your videos that you never have to call an oil burner technician again. It's not rocket science. BTW - for better prices on heating oil, go to either smarttouchenergy dot com or CODfuel dot com and check the online price. Then ask your oil supplier to meet that price or beat it by a few cents per gallon. The online sellers use local suppliers and charge them a fee for the order, so the local supplier will usually give you that price or lower. It's surprising how much the cost difference is.
Good luck from one Lund to another.
Good name! LOL. Good point on lubricating the gasket. I did end up removing the nozzle and cleaning the boiler but I did not get that on video. I was quite surprised how clean it was inside. The amount of white ash I removed in total would have fit inside of a drinking glass. After I cleaned it I called the guy that cleaned it 4 years prior and I told him my findings. He said it had been running well. I plan to do this on my own from now on. To make my wife happy and give myself a little peace of mind, I installed a carbon monoxide detector close to the boiler just in case and I will probably open it up at 3 months and 6 months just to get a quick visual to make sure i didn't screw anything up. I recently installed a Modine heater in my workshop so that was another huge accomplishment for me and quite rewarding afterwards. Those I did do a video on if your interested. Thanks for your support and the great tip on the oil prices. I will be looking into that!
I took three filters like yours off my old tractor and put a one larger spin on type ,it made it a lot easer to maintain , what causes the sludge ? l have never seen that in fuel tanks before maybe there is an additive that will clean that stuff up .your right it's good to know how to keep your house running it saves time and money, making a yearly check list will help we are never to old to learn , that's one of the reasons I watch your videos thanks again TANK
I'm not sure what causes the gel but I guess it's somewhat common. One of the viewers said add biofuel. I did a little research and he was right! That stuff is awesome. It will eat all the sludge and clean everything up, plus you dont have to adjust anything AND it's more efficient than heating oil. Its corrosive though so it can eat the seals in the pump so you have keep an eye on that. Biofuel! Who would have thought!
Great vids been watching your beginner series, i have a small 80amp inverter welder but im not keen on the clamp style electrode holder and want to change it to a twist type one. Now my clamp is a 200amp holder and the new one like like is 400amp would it be ok to use it? Thanks 👍
I've had good luck with a name brand Tweco Tong brand of clamp. They aren't cheap made in China quality, I think made in Mexico. And they are very light to hold with a longer handle for changing electrodes easily even with heavy Kevlar gloves on. I agree with Brandon, cheap electrode holders are mostly crappy.
Matthew has some good points. I personally am not a fan of the twist style clamp and I'm also not a fan of the clamp style found on many of the budget welders. Most just feel cheap and the notches wiggle around making your rod wander. They just dont have a positive feel. I spoke about this in one of my videos. I change out the clamp with a decent quality one from my welding supply store and it makes a huge difference as far as I'm concerned.
Jeff most people really like the clamp better because it's easier to break free when you screw up and stick the electrode to the project. That said, higher amperage than needed is always OK safety wise but it can be difficult to get the wire to fit if the holes are too huge. I've solved that problem using littles slices from a sheet of copper sheet metal to make shims when tightening down the connections. The main problem is that high amperage cables and electrode holders get very heavy and make your hand and forearm ache unnecessarily. But if that doesn't bother you then party on.
@Ray B. I'm hoping to get this swapped out this spring. I like the idea of the gauge. I'll be sure to get a video up...there is a pretty good chance it could turn into a fiasco lol. I'm glad I built that hoist setup in the stairwell. It will come in real handy to get the old tank out and the new one in!
@Brandon Lund the gauge lets you know what shape your filter is in.. Easy to replace but a little more money.. Had a filter like yours and it clogged up and collapsed letting sludge into my line which had to be replaced.. Filter is MUCH cheaper!
Извини чувак. По сущности, я показывал, будто я поменял фильтр на масляном баке, а потом продул заглушенную линию. Я остерегал людей, чтоб они были аккуратны, поэтому что вы могли бы сделать большой кавардак, если бы вы разлили масло всюду.
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